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The paintings of Italian-born artist Agostino Brunias, who made a profession of depicting the island in subdued, stylized settings that covered up the harsh realities of colonial control, were my first visual introduction to Dominica. However, as soon as I step onto its winding roads, which begin to twist shortly after I arrive, it becomes evident that this region, which is situated in the center of the Lesser Antilles’ curve, is anything but tame. The two-toned leaves of its bois canot trees, which change color from green to white when they sway in the wind, shimmer and bristle with the power of the volcano. It lulls with the erratic sound of its numerous waterfalls, scatters rainbows haphazardly across its breathtaking horizons, and enchants from the depths with its vibrant coral reefs. And it roars come storm season.
The indigenous Kalinago people of Dominica survived invasion by the French and British, who imposed slavery on the Africans who now make up four-fifths of the island’s population and left a linguistic legacy of English and French-based Creole, by mastering the lush tropical rainforest that covers more than 60% of the island. If you visit Trinidad for roti and Jamaica for jerk, you should travel to Dominica for green things like bush rum and flower teas. There are a ton of medicinal herbs in the forest.
The Jungle Bay Dominica resort, located smack dab in the center of the Soufrière jungles, leans into nature instead, maybe realizing the futility of fighting against the earth’s generosity. When I finally get there, the kitchen is closed. Joanne Hilaire, the operations manager, tells me that they never let guests go hungry, though, so I can feel the warmth of Dominica’s welcome. The cook is preparing an excellently stewed dish of beans with taro, rice, and plantain for our late dinner, off the menu, while I have a refreshing ginger-lime cocktail that is a local favorite. When I wake up the following morning, I find that my villa’s doors open onto a private veranda that faces southwest toward Soufrière Bay, where the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean converge. I let the light wake me for the remainder of my stay by leaving my blinds open.
The she-wolf visited the village seeking food, and the forester, moved by her plight, offered help. Two months later, she returned, bringing company with her
On one particularly cold day, Forester Stephen was sitting in his house enjoying a cup of tea when an unfamiliar noise caught his attention. It came from under his fence and had the unmistakable growl of a wild animal.
Curious and concerned, Stephen went outside to investigate. After a moment’s thought, he decided to bring out some frozen meat, realising that the harsh cold was making it difficult for wildlife to find food. He knew this was particularly difficult for both the animals and local families.
The wild animal’s behavior seemed strange to Stephen. Wolves usually stay in their own territory and rarely venture into human settlements unless they are driven by extreme hunger.
Soon the she-wolf began to appear frequently at Stephen’s home. The locals became increasingly agitated and criticized Stephen for his actions. They were worried about the presence of a wolf so close to the village and left their children in the safety of their homes.
Despite growing pressure from his neighbors, Stephen ignored her complaints and continued to feed the wolf, realizing that a hungry wolf could pose a greater threat to everyone.
As winter ended, the wolf’s visits stopped, much to the relief of the villagers. But Stephen missed her presence, as he had become accustomed to her visits.
Spring arrived, bringing with it the familiar howling. Stephen rushed outside to find an unexpected sight: the she-wolf had brought her two pups with her. The animals watched him quietly, and it dawned on Stephen that the meat he had provided all winter was being used to feed their young.
With the arrival of spring, the wolf pack prepared to move to a new territory to ensure that they would no longer cause trouble to the villagers. The she-wolf said goodbye to Stephen in silence and from that moment on, no more wolves were seen in the area.
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